Sunday, October 25, 2015

85 miles on the Suwannee River - Day 2

Day 2 - The Longest Day 
Sponsored by the makers of Frogg Toggs and long sleeves 

[2.1] Woods Ferry River Camp to Holton Creek River Camp (HCRC)
The river is very curvy today with a lot of visual interests

Day 2 Map
Today was to be the longest day so an early start was important.  We also were competing with a Boy Scout group for limited space to launch our boats.  We were up early to pack and were able to beat them out.  Still, it was later than I had hoped but I was hoping it would get easier to pack as the week went.

Savannah eating breakfast on the river.
[2.2] Breaks

Stopping along the river is always a challenge when you have 6 boats to find parking spots.  You don't want to park on rocks because it can damage your boat or someone if they fall.  Sand is nice but it has to have a shoreline to get out of the boat and stretch the legs.  One of the best locations that we have found to take breaks are sandbars.  These happen when the river makes a sudden change in direction.  The white sand becomes very enticing to visit and lounge around.  Of course the kids took any opportunity they could find to go swimming and to play.












What was that?

When paddling the Suwannee there are times that you are making great progress speed wise.  Things are smooth, everyone has energy, and the weather isn't a problem.  The limestone is incredible to look at.  It appears to have been carved out in deep pockets with oversized spoons of varying sizes: baseball, softball, basketball, and larger.  With the many turns in this part of the river, your interest is piqued at what is around the corner and the amazing scenery.  

The turns cause for some surprises: eddies.  These swirling motions in the river cause all kinds of havoc on the boats.  The sudden slowing, turning, or redirection of the boat provides many vocal noises from the riders.

Another thing that is noticed are the amount of springs in the water.  The tell tale signature of the boil is a give away.  Sometimes it would be a small one, other times it was a group of them.  Then there were the large ones.  With every pass over a spring, the my kayak would behave differently.   This is probably due to the water hitting the rudder from beneath the boa, ways that I am not used to.  I read somewhere that the river has over 1,000 springs in it.  I can't help but be amazed at how much water is flowing into the river from the springs on a daily basis.


[2.3] What is that Smell?

We arrived to our first spring of the trip, Suwannee Springs.  It is an old resort that was walled in to contain the water.  I am sure they didn't tell the tourists in the sales pitch about what the water smelled like: sulfer.  Ah, the smell of rotten eggs emanating from a body of water seems to chase the kids away.  Angelia and Savannah were not interested in playing in this water.  No, they just scurried back to the kayaks to play in the much better smelling river water.


Me taking a plunge into the not so clear, sulfur smell waters of Suwannee Springs


Suwannee Springs pathway

Suwannee Springs, river beyond looking south

Suwannee Springs

Suwannee Springs - looking up stream with my kayak in the background

Suwannee Springs



Maria sitting in a window



Spring water flowing out into the Suwannee


Underwater "culvert" which allows water out into river

Me

Looking south

Old bridge for US 129

I, on the other hand, decided to take the plunge: Nestea style.  While Maria, Casey, Shawn, and Debi looked on, I plunged backwards into the 72 degree water from the sandy shoreline.  Once done, I swam around looking at the features of this long abandoned resort.  The water level was still high enop2ugh from the previous rainfall which caused the tanic water from the river to make exploring impossible.  It was pretty neat to see some of the old flood gate control iron eyelets that would hold some kind of moving door.  

After some picture taking along with some video we were off again.  

Throughout our longest travel day, the weather seemed to keep the sun away.  It was cool, and then we would get rain with a mix of mist and drizzle.  That wasn't too bad but sometimes the wind would kick up making things more fun.  This happened several times throughout the day but I preferred that to the blazing sun.

[2.4] Look up in the tree!  It's a tree....
Passing by the Suwannee River Music Park, we noticed something new and totally awesome.  A very new looking treehouse.  I knew they had a treehouse for overnight stays but this looked like the paint was just put on.  Well, turns out this was completed in the spring by the none other than DIY Network's Treehouse Guys.  It is apparently completed but I have no idea how much it will cost to stay there.  I did some research and found some pictures of what it looks like online and it is amazing.  Looking to record the episode which is 100 year old oak tree


Tree house at Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park
Tree house at Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park

[2.5] Lunch Break
Lunch was at the ramp for Spirit of the Suwanee Music Park.  It is the same ramp where Canoe Outpost operates out of.  This was about our half way point for the longest day of the trip.  

I would like to thank them personally for helping with a bathroom break for several in our group.  The restrooms are 3/4 of a mile from the ramp and would have been a long walk. even when you don't need to use the restrooms.  Thank you guys, you will never know how much of a life saver you were.

Need to find some help with lunch, where are the kids...

...oh, of course.

Debi relaxing on the "beach" with Casey looking on 

[2.6] Break Time
During this break, the kids do what they normally like to do, play and swim in the water.  This sand bar had a tall, somewhat steep, bank that the kids played on as well.  They slid down it enough that we started kidding about it looking like an alligator slide.  Of course, we tried to leave it there for others to enjoy.

Kids playing on sand bar

Kids playing on sand bar



Thinking man


Angelia pauses her fun for a picture

Debi, Me, Casey, and Shawn



No privacy at all!  Paparazzi is everywhere!

Savannah soaking

Savannah and Angelia...

...temporary truce must have been called




[2.7] River Camp: Holton Creek River Camp


Night 2 lodging

Where we are at, where have been, and where we are going.

After a long day, these steps seemed to never end.

After a long day, we were greeted by a bunch of stairs at the river camp.  We started just bringing up what we thought we would need.  That, inevitably, would lead to repeated trips to the kayak to get forgotten items.  Sometime during this trip, I got smarter, and started bringing stuff back when retrieving the forgotten items.  The shelters were the same but there were no other campers in them.  There was a group working on the Florida Trail (it runs through this camp and backpackers are able to stay here as well) but they were tent camping.  We ended up letting the kids have their own shelter.

The bathrooms were different than the previous camp.  They consisted of 2 portable style bulidings with a total of 3 toilet/shower combinations.  The water also had the heavy smell of sulfer as well.  There was also no campground host there either.

Dinner consisted of beanie weenies.  They must have been good because Maria had seconds and I believe we ate all of them.  We also we able to enjoy a few burgers that Shawn had as extras.  Those were great cheddar/bacon burgers.

Who is Slamming Doors in the Middle of the Night?

At night, while others slept, I dealt with my electronics.  There were a lot items that I had to charge every night.  While going through the Gopro stuff, I noticed that water had gotten into the case and dried out everything.

Once done, I headed for a shower.  When back, Maria woke up and asked about me slamming the doors.  I had no idea what she was talking about and figured she was half asleep.  After some reading and fidgeting with the electrical stuff, I turned in for the night.

Next morning, I was up before the girls and started working on breakfast.  Shawn and Debi were already up like usual so  I joined them down by the river and talked for a bit.  Shawn mentioned the slamming doors as well.  I never heard them but did hear all of the nut shells falling from the trees onto the metal roofs of the shelters all night long.  I had to laugh since Shawn and Maria thought the noises were the same thing.

Bug Battle

While working on the electronic stuff, I noticed a common wood roach next to my gear.  I quickly killed it (hey, I am the son of a certified pest control operator).  Then I noticed several more but couldn't get to them because of where they were located.  Uh, oh.  I walked around checking things out and hung up some clothes as well.  Then I saw a green anole sleeping on a clothesline.  (Some think these are lizards but us Floridians know better.)  I thought that was odd, and how did he get in here?  Then I noticed it: an entire section of screen was missing that we completely missed.  Me being the kind husband I am, did not wake up the family and tell them.  Better for them to not know and get a good nights sleep.  Besides, I am sure the wood roaches was an isolated incident.

Misc Pictures








Which way to camp?




85 miles on the Suwannee River - Day 1


85 miles on the Suwannee
A week of springs, smiles, fun, and a lot of memories.

Prologue

During a family reunion to a resort near Mayo, FL, we decided to take our recently acquired kayaks on a 6 mile portion of the Suwannee River.  We started at the bridge on [route 51] and pulled out at Suwannee River Rendezvous (SRR) which was where we were staying at.  One of the stops on the river that caught our eye was Peacock Slough River Camp which was part of the Suwannee River Wilderness Trail.  That inspired the much longer trip that follows.

There were a total of 7 people on this trip: my brother Shawn and his wife Debi, a family friend Casey, and my family.  My wife Maria, was joined by our daughters Angelia (13) and Savannah(11).  Oh, my name is Ken.  My family traveled in Hobie Kayaks with the Mirage drive pedals while Shawn and Debi traveled in a canoe together.  Casey was solo in his canoe as well.

The trip was planned from Stephen Foster State Park In White Springs, Florida to Branford, Florida.  We stopped 6 miles short of Branford at the advice of our transportation outfitter at SRR.

Planning and research was done by us.  Lots of phone calls, reading various blogs and watching Youtube clips.  Please see Sources for our reference materials.

I had plans to film the entire way down the river via a Gopro (version 4 black edition) mounted to the front of my kayak.  I would combine that footage with a selfie stick mounted Gopro (version 1) and three Fuji film underwater cameras.  The problem is storage of the video/pictures.  I would have needed about 20-64 gb cards for just the main GP camera and that didn't make financial sense since this amount of video would, more than likely, be a one time thing.  I ended up settling on an 2 TB external mil spec hard drive connected to my 10 year old laptop computer.  I would download video and pictures every night to the hard drive.  The kayak mounted Gopro was connected to a 12v battery that had another use as well.

I have listed the water levels for each day.  This may help others while planning their trip.  Here is a link to where the water levels can be found and another that gives general explanations of what they mean for paddling.  Note that all numbers refer to the water level above sea level in feet.  In general, the water was between 4 - 6 feet except where there were some shoals.

Due to the length and potential for hazards on the trip, there were several  things that I wanted to practice with the family before we left.  More paddling time would be ideal.  The Hobie kayaks are difficult to paddle due to no keel.  Furthermore, the Outback versions are wide and tank like when it comes to steering with a paddle.  Removal and putting back in the Mirage drive from within the kayak was another.  This would be helpful if there were any on water repairs needed or obstacles in the water.  Getting back into a capsized kayak was another one.  This is already a difficult task but we are not in optimal condition (read: overweight).  This was my biggest concern but I knew we had plenty of people in our group and the shoreline was generally a reasonable distance.  Given time constraints, and the terrible weather we had the last 3 weeks before the trip, we were not able to practice any of these.  Oh well, hopefully this wouldn't come up later.

Please note, as you have already noticed, I am very wordy but I hope that our trip will help many others on future trips.  Get a strong cup of coffee and enjoy our trip.  There will also be a video version of this as well....sometime soon.  Also, in order to help with those that may use this blog as a reference for their trip, I am going to produce a separate, more condensed version on this blog with more technical information on it that may not be included in here.

Day 1 - Early to Rise, and on with Our Journey
All the planning comes down to this

Stephen Foster Culture Center State Park (SFCCSP) to Woods Ferry River Camp (WFRC)
This portion of the river is very curvy with a lot of visual interests



[1.1] In the Beginning....
We are starting out the trip at Stephen Foster State Park.  There a boat ramp that that we used.  A nice side bar is that this same "road" we go down to the ramp, is part of the Florida Trail (FT).  The same one that we had been backpacking on other editions of this blog.  Also, the first two river camps that we were to stay at were also on the Florida Trail as well.  This is because the FT parallels a lot of the river for the first couple days our our trip.  Pretty cool seeing the familiar to us orange blaze of the FT at various spots from the river.

Savannah, Angelia, and Ken packing kayaks

Savannah showing that she is a shutterbug like her mom


This state park is gorgeous.  The grounds are really nice.  There is also a carillon (bell tower) that plays songs from Stephen Foster every 15 minutes.  Loved that.  We tent camped here on Friday night, leaving the tent in one of the vehicles.  Dinner was supposed to be salmon from Shawn and steak from us.  Well, I forgot to thaw out the steak but we managed.  The salmon was fantastic too.

They were also setting up Christmas lights.  It seems early but it is because they have a display of 5.5 million lights!  We are hoping to stop by here in December to check these out!

Too Much Stuff

I knew 8 nights on the river would be a challenge regarding gear.  I figured my backpacking experience would help but the unknown factor was my family.  They don't backpack but LOVE camping.  From a car.  And in a large tent or pop-up camper.  With 13 and 11 year old kids, their comfort over my convenience was more of a concern so I let them bring some additional items that, in the overall scheme of things, didn't add much.  Clothes and toiletries on the other hand was an interesting dilemma though. 

On top of that, there was a lot of food.  I mean, A LOT.  Two coolers (one 5 day, one electric) added more weight but thankfully the electric cooler when into one of the canoes.  Lets just say that coolers will never be in my plans again even if there is electricity and/or ice available at each stop!  I wasn't sure how much food they would actually eat but I knew they would be hungry and I didn't want them to starve.  Add in a bunch of snacks, and extra dehydrated foods, and you are starting to get the picture.  

I also had a dry bag with all of the electronics in it which was bulky and heavy (don't forget my old laptop computer as well).   Also there was an extension cord and plug strip.  Insane how much I had in that bag (charger for fishfinder, charger for the 12v GP camera, GP battery charger for the regular batteries, 2 different battery chargers for the cameras, phone charger, charger for the V1 GP, etc).  Lets just say that others in our group didn't like to volunteer to carry that bag.  My clothing was very minimal.  2 sets of shirts, shorts, underwear, socks.  One lightweight long pants and hoodie.  Flops, water shoes, and sneakers.  Never used the socks, sneakers, pants, and hoodie.

Rough Start

After finally getting started, I was the last one out but something didn't seem right.  After looking around I noticed my phone wan't around my neck in its waterproof container.  After catching up with Maria, I inquired about the phone but she didn't have it.  I must have left it at the ramp!   Uggh.   So, I turned around and went upstream to the ramp.  Yes, that was fun and not the ideal way to start a long trip.  Those legs were definitely burning.  Yes, my legs.  I have a peddle drive kayak so it made the salmon portion of this trip, easier.  It must have taken 15 minutes to get to the ramp.  I looked everywhere but I didn't see the phone.  I headed back downstream and caught up with the group who had pulled over to wait for me.  After telling them of my bad news, I made a comment of that it is probably in my center hatch (which is right between my legs).  I opened up the hatch and viola!  There it is.  Uggh, all that work and time for nothing but a funny story. 

Not far in, we had our first mechanical challenge, one of the Hobie drives broke.  Angelia had mentioned that something didn't feel right on it.  After stopping, I was able to see that a pin had come out.  The same one that I put in at the start of the trip at the boat ramp.  Oh well, I had spare parts.  Later on, same thing happened and I determined that we had a bigger issue where a part that held the pin was had it's hole enlarged enough that the pin would not stay.  Well, I figured we were almost to camp at that point and would wait.  Later that night I fixed it with some zip ties.

Angelia at the start and smiling.  Wonder how long that will last?

Savannah smiling but for how long?

Debi and Shawn

Casey

Maria steps from behind the camera




Ken (author of this blog)  celebrating becoming a professional kayaker?  Not not really.
[1.2] Blue Sink
The group came to one of the first places to explore but it didn't look to be much.  Casey decided to go explore and was back within 5 minutes.  See his blog for more information.


Casey exploring Blue Sink
[1.3] A Swiftly Moving Creek
There was a creek that seemed just ready to explore. The water was clear and showed promise of having a spring near by.  Shawn and Debi went up it along with Casey.  They quickly realized that the water coming down the creek was moving very fast.  Fast enough that Shawn kept getting thrown off course and steered towards the rocks.  They abandoned going up the creek due to caution.  Later on, we realized they were trying to go up the aptly named Swift Creek.  This creek is actually quite long in length so we are not sure how far we would have been able to go up it anyways.

Rope swing at Swift Creek

[1.4] I-75 from Below

Our first bridge that we got to go under was i-75.  We could hear it from a distance but it seemed to take a long time to get to it.  Once there, I was surprised how tall it was.  With the potential for flooding of the river, it made sense though.  Another thing that was noticed was that there was debris stuck in the support structure of the bridge.  Not just little branches but significant parts of trees.  These had to be 20 feet up.

[1.5] River Camp: Woods Ferry River Camp (WFRC)

Where we are at, where have been, and where we are going.

After about 10 miles of paddling, with several breaks, we arrived at Woods Ferry River Camp.  A Boy Scout group was already there taking up 3 of the 5 shelters.  The shelters are about 12'x12' with hard wire mesh over screen.  The screen keeps the bugs out, the mesh keeps the other animals from going through the screen.  Each shelter has a light/ceiling fan combination, two  integrated tables (one in handicapped shelters), and two electrical plugs.  A nice feature is that there is a wood rail "shelf" to put misc items on.  There are also misc eyelets and hooks to hang hammocks or clothes from as well. 
Part of ramp to camp

Part of ramp to camp

Parking lot full, we let them float with an additional line










The Boy Scout troop was an interesting sight.  They were not carrying any gear in the boats that I could notice.  Then again, I was going upstream looking for my phone.  At camp, I noticed a trailer pulling up with all of their gear.  Now, imagine my surprise what they had for an overnight trip.  Cots and huge duffle bags full of who knows what,  Their cooking equipment was impressive with deep fryers for french fries (heard one person say that they were donated to them) and multiple coolers.  It seemed that there were a lot in the group that had never been camping.  Even with that, my Boy Scout leaders would have killed us if we brought that much gear for a one or two night trip.

Shawn "shopping" for gear


There was also another group there as well.  They were hanging out in the picnic shelter area when we came in.  They were on an extended break and still had 10 miles to go that day.  It was already late (4 or so) so they would be pulling into Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park late, possibly at dark.  They were very experienced kayakers (not sure if they were professionals though, see below).  They had been paddling the Suwannee River in sections on weekends.  Weeks earlier, they started at Fargo, GA where the river starts and paddle some each weekend or so.  That was the same thing we were doing with the FT.  Pretty cool.

Dinner was the steak that had thawed during the day.  Surprisingly, there were some leftovers (mostly from me) and I saved those to use another day.

Misc Pictures:



Angelia with limestone shoreline in background
Savannah with limestone shoreline in background


Debi and Shawn showing how they battle headwinds.


Angelia and a interesting tree behind her.
So, the question remains: who photobombed who?









Savannah at break

Maria and Savannah

Ken adjusting his gear fixed.  This would be a re-occurring theme.

Boats, boats everywhere

Savannah playing during a break

Angelia during a break

Maria getting her break...from the camera